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This is my newly acquired 1980 Mike Hailwood Replica. As you can see its a real project. Completely dismantled
(even the steering lock has been removed from the frame) it came in three boxes.
The engine has suffered a catastrophic failure that's destroyed the front head and piston. The valves have sheared off in their guides and the piston is “very” holed
This will be an occasionally build that I hope will inspire others to save a heap of parts that used to be a bike or maybe just make a start on that project under the cover in the garage. Updates will be posted here along with anything else that might be of interest to browsers on my site
First up is this instrument warning light console. These were used on the Darmah (incorporating the handle bar clamp) the Pantah and the MHR and S2. They are cast alloy, very prone to cracking and have a plastic rear cover. The warning lights are really hard to find and only three of these work, L and R flasher and the High beam. Because of the problems in finding these I am going to repair them as best I can. Provided the front faces are reasonably good they can be cleaned up using Solvo autosol which works quite well as a plastic/Perspex polish.
As you can see the loom has been cut but I have a new replacement as part of a complete loom that came with the bike. The switch seems ok and has a key which again is good as its a really difficult part to find now.
Instrument warning light consol stripped back to bare metal ready for etch primer and semi gloss top coat, also the black plastic rear cover
These are the idiot lights as removed and cleaned up with soapy water and the front lenses polished with autosol. The white bulb inserts have been removed, all these have blown or are missing their bulbs so I have ordered some LED replacements.
A coat of etch primer was left for 24hrs and then several coats of Semi gloss Black was applied. It can now harden for a week while wait for the LED’s.
Next up is this old Nipon Denso LHS switch unit that came in the box of bits. Fortunately I have some spare castings so although this one I broken above the indicator switch its not a problem, thankfully the guy that stripped this bike didnt just cut the wires at the plug :)
These units were also used on the Laverda triples but more importantly an almost identical version was used on the 2 stroke GT Suzuki's of the 1970s and there are parts still available.
Stripped back to bare metal, primed, painted semi gloss black and the letters painted back in orange. all the internals were put through the ultra sonic cleaner and all look in good usable condition. (Did a spare set while I was at it)
The little LED’s have arrived, these are called “Grain or Wheat” they are 12v and used by railway modellers for street lighting etc. They measure about 3mm dia x 6mm long so are actually smaller than the original bulbs and being LED will have a hugely longer life span.
The original bulbs were soldered in so replacing with these LED’s should be no problem however you need to work quite quickly as the melting point of the white plastic light bodies is much lower than the solder so get the contacts to hot with the tip of your soldering iron and you will melt the plastic.
These LEDs come in Red,green and white and yellow so you will need to use white in your Blue High Beam light but it will appear blue when lit.
Plenty of room in the light housing for the LED’s
Reassemble the outer lens to the body with a very small touch of super glue to aid the plastic clips
Finished item looks good, I cant add the new loom to it let because while the boxes of bit contained a new loom its not from a Hailwood…………the joys of buying boxes of bits..
I might swap the stand light for a plain Red one as original as the MHR doesn't have a side stand because of the fairing although some bikes did still have the stand light fitted from a Darmah/Pantahs
A first look at the clocks !! Basically someone has just painted them black with a thick black paint by hand. No doubt this was done because the original chrome backs had rusted ? But who knows why people do things like this ? These will need to be stripped down, checked and rebuilt. A guy I have dealt with in the past called Marcel den Butter in Holland, runs a company called CB750 faces after the Honda CB750/4 of the seventies. These iconic Hondas used the same Nippon denso clocks as the Ducati MHR/Pantah/Darmah with small differences. He is able to supply faces, cases, glasses for these clocks making rebuilds so much easier. He can even do your rebuild for you. Marcel den Butter CB750 faces
You will need to cut the crimp ring off the outer case that hold the whole thing together, this will separate the black front case from the plated rear body which mounts the mechanics, once split you can remove the inner shell from the black case and the glass and its rubber seal, if you need to replace the faces you will need to remove the needles/pointers/hands from the front face. The spindle is fragile and will bend so pull the needles off evenly ( they are just a press fit) using a pair of tea spoons.
The insides are clean and the spindles that hold the hands dont seem to have much play so will be fine.
The faces themselves have faded badly, you can see a dark line where the needle has sat on the speedo. I need to replace these and although Marcel doesnt list these on his website at the moment he is able to manufacture new ones with the Ducati wording so a pair of faces, glass seals, case seals and a new pair of crimp rings have been ordered.
Comments, Questions , Suggestions
This is the finished item with 9 pin Molex connector for Ducati looms.
MHR warning light and ignition switch console
Nippon Denso L/H switch gear
Nippon Denso clock set MHR
The new clock faces arrived today with new glass seals, case seals and crimp rings. I need to get on now and re paint the needles
Many thanks to Marcel at CB750 faces for the parts.
I have re painted the needles, 1st shot shows they were starting to rust
They are now Audi white with fluorescent orange tips shot 2
Finished job waiting to be crimped up, I used a std gloss black for the cases, Audi white for the inner rings and needles. If you need to paint the blue green interior then you can go to your local model shop and buy a can of Tamiya spray paint, the colour is that used on the underside of an ME109 German fighter :-) its not actually seen but provides the green lighting at night.
Hopefully I will be able to borrow a lathe next week and roll the edges of the crimp ring over and these will be done.
Brembo P08 goldlines
The calipers are genuine Goldlines but have been painted gold…..(Note: Genuine Goldlines do not have the lip to hold a pad cover in place)
These will be stripped right down, re anodised and rebuilt
Coils and HT leads
The Coils, resistors and leads sit under the front of the petrol tank and take most of the crud thrown up by the front wheel. The HT leads are prone to melt on the exhaust header pipes and because changing them is not straight forward are often in a poor state.
Renovation is a case of stripping, cleaning and reassembly, As always take a few pictures with your mobile before you start and it make re assembly so much easier.
Coil leads are glued in to the coils, a 7mm copper strand core lead is used which I keep in stock, basically cut away the glue you can see externally and try and pull the lead out of the coil. If it snaps you will have to drill it out with a 7mm drill, be careful not to drill out the spike that impalas the lead at the bottom of the hole. If that breaks off you will need a new coil. Fit a new lead using a small amount of Araldite round the outside to seal and fix the lead to the coil.
Coils stripped and cleaned, bolts and fittings have been replated bright Zinc, new HT leads fitted and new plug caps ( caps in stock in red or black)
Calipers have been stripped back to bare metal, if yours are just worn anodising they can be re anodised without stripping back but these were painted and you cant anodise painted surfaces. ?Any paint residue acts like a masking take and will show as bare metal once the rest of the caliper has been re anodised. Anodising is a stain not a coating so it doesn't add thickness so no need to mask bores or threads but find an anodiser that knows what he is doing as these are brake parts and need to be done well.
Forks and Yokes
Forks are much as expected and in need of a full strip and rebuild. This MHR is a 1980 model from the second batch and has bare fork legs , later were crinkle finish black. They are of course 38mm Marzocchi.
Stanchions on this year/model were 590mm but its always best to check the old ones as mhr/SS models used 580-600mm and this will effect the length of rear damper used. New stanchions will set you back about £300 a pair, they can also be stripped , re chromed and ground for about £200 a pair.
Yokes look to be in pretty good condition, I need to split that bottom bearing to remove it. I keep SKF high quality taper roller bearing in stock if you need to replace yours.
All top yokes on Hailwoods were crinkle black so will need to sort that out as well
Fork internals removed and all seems good. Typically Italian that these internals seem to be alloy, others I have stripped in the past have been steel.
Not sure what to do with the legs yet, I want to try and get an original type finish or at least a used but looked after finish. What I don't want is a mirror polished machine finish as this is a restoration not a special. At the moment they are just as they came out of the ultra sonic bath.
I keep all you need to do this rebuild to your forks including fork seals (double lip and 2 per leg) Dust boots for Marzocchi, low and high version as well as Ceriani. Special low head Stainless damper rod bolts and their copper sealing washers. Snap rings for retaining the fork seals and clips for retaining the dust boots with cable guides.
Calipers back from the anodisers. Just need to put them back together now
Finished Job, the Gold series calipers came with teflon coated pistons as std and these were in perfect condition so I just fitted new seals, ectro polished stainless bolts and nipples, new pads and pin kits. Another job crossed off the list :)
Disc carriers were ina poor state having been painted at some time which never works with brake fluid. I stripped them back to bare metal with paint stripper and had them Cerakoted which is a ceramic coating that is resistant to oil, fuels and brake fluids. Its a better finish than anodising and easier to clean. Its microns thick so will not affect the disc truth. Discs are mounted using High tensile Stainless screws with special Schnorr S Type Anti-Vibration Safety Washers . Both screws and washer are available from stock on my pages.
Well what can I say ? A pair of Marzocchi strada AG2’s that would never have been fitted to a Hailwood in the factory but quite a common replacement for the std Marzocchi shocks over the years. First instinct is to throw them in the bin however on reflection I suppose the thing about a restoration is you “restore” as opposed to throw away and buy new.
I think I have some usable damper rods in the parts bin but the eyes for mounting are the wrong size so I need to try and get these out of the old top mounts. They could be rechromed and ground but last time iasked it was £75.00 a unit so that rather makes restoration not viable .
One other point of interest, I dont think Strada’s ever had chrome springs ?
Paint stripped off using paint stripper, just need to sand these down now and get some etch primer on them. Bottom mounts are fine.
I have found some good damper rods of the right dia and length which was pretty lucky, in my spares stock. They had the wrong size eyes fitted so I have pushed these out and found another set of castings with the correct size.
These are the seals. Marzocchi used to supply the seals in the repair kits ready fitted to their alloy housings however I will try and get these seals out and just rep[lace them. Seals are always clearly marked for size and these as you can see are 12 x 24 x 7mm. The picture is not very good but 12 x 24 is at 6 O’clock and the 7 is at about 8 O’clock
10th March 2019
Work has slowed for a while as this is my busy time of year. I am open 12 hours a day 7 days a week and have little spare time . This is not such a bad thing as with every week that passes the weather gets a little warmer and the thought of getting outside and stripping the engine gets a little more appealing.…………………………….To be continued……….SOON
Shocks are now painted with new seals, rubber and nylon parts. I have fitted the correct size mountings. I found that leaving the eyes in the freezer over night and heating the alloy sockets to 150c in the oven lets you just drop the eyes back in but you have to work fast, no second chances… I need to now search for some springs, I think I have some in store elsewhere but if not I will get the chrome ones stripped and powder coated black.
Still not sure if I will use these as Hailwoods never had strada shocks but they were a period replacement. I may sell them to fund the correct parts.
I finished the shock and added powder coated springs but then immediately stuck them on E-bay
Bottom line is Hailwoods never had stradas fitted soiwill not be happy keeping them.
Heads are back from blasting and look quite good. Closing rockers are back from having Stelite pads fitted,openers were fine so are still chrome.
Valve guides and seat seem to be fine which is a bonus
This is what we are aiming for.
17th March 2019
I was just about to start cleaning up and reseating the valves with a view to getting the heads completed and put away. However, its pretty soon became obvious that there was problem.
The rear head has obviously destroyed itself and the bike came with a replacement head, I checked both heads over and while they are both wide stud versions for 40mm carbs I notice the rear head has a 36mm inlet and the front has a 32mm inlet valve…..
I don’t think 36 was standard on the 80 Hailwood although it might have been on the later millie version.
Back in the day this larger valve conversion was quite common so its not really surprising the spare head is not std.
Anyway the valve seat itself is the right OD so I have decided to send the heads away and get new seats, guides and valves fitted. Its extra expense but I want this to be as near perfect as I can get it.
I am also pondering whether to go for stainless bolts all round or try and make up a complete set of original OBV cap-heads , bolts and Screws ? I am leaning towards the originals